Iran Odyssey Day 8: Kerman to Shiraz


The drive to the foothills of the Zagros Montains


Having headed southeast since our arrival we turn southwest for our next stop in Shiraz.

After a substantial drive we arrive in Neyriz and stop to look at its 10th century mosque (Masjed-e Jame) that is built over an earlier fire temple.


Neyriz mosque. Mihrab not quite aligned to Mecca


The orientation of the open room (ivan), which dictates the direction of Mecca, is at odds with with alignment of the prayer carpets, which run obliquely across the floor. Cleverly, it is deduced by one of the group that the mosque must have been built directly over the remains of the temple and the new occupiers had simply adapted the furnishings in the direction of Mecca.


Box of turbah (Shia prayer stones)

The landscape becomes more dramatic as we pass over some foot hills. The land is cultivated with fig trees so we stop to buy some from a roadside shack. Everyone races to the counter and searches for the figs and fail to see that the piles and piles of little nut-looking objects that fill the shop front are in fact dried figs.


Tiny dried figs

As we drop down into the valley below I get my first real view of the legendary Zagros Mountain range. They form an imposing outline against the sky, and I’m instantly reminded of a passage in the book I am reading* that talks of Assyrians scaling their perilous contours in order to attack the peoples who inhabit them. Seeing them now, lit by the evening sun, is a most vivid way to remember the words of a book.


The eastern edge of the Zagros Montains


We dive to a small hunting lodge at Savistan of dubious date – some say Sassanid others say early Islamic. Either way, it is a pleasing building with domed rooms, narrow corridors and a charming courtyard


Savistan lodge

As we drive toward Shiraz white streaks appear in the valley bottom and these are the salt lakes. As we draw nearer their banks we see lines of people wading out into the opaque depths of the water. I have no idea what they are doing but they are framed beautifully in the reflection of the hills.

The salt waders


Entering Shiraz is like entering Las Vegas. After all the small country dwellings and shacks we have passed the wide, tree-lined boulevards with neon signs and three lanes of traffic come as a shocking contrast. My romantic vision of Shiraz has evaporated into a blur of high rise buildings, beeping cars and glitzy facades. And there is no sign of wine.

*The brilliant ‘Persian Fire’ by the inimitable Tom Holland.


2 thoughts on “Iran Odyssey Day 8: Kerman to Shiraz

  1. Marina

    Lovely to have it all brought to life again…but hope you find the time to write up the rest!! We’ll send you Tom’s dairy if you want to help remembering, but have to type it first. And glorious photos!!

    1. pompei79 Post author

      Planning on finishing it this week but returned to find my wifi has been cut off so everything has stalled! Thanks for offer of Tom’s notes. May well ask for help if I leave it too much longer. But I WILL finish it. X


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